Dismal Swamp to Charlston S.C.
 |
DATE: October 30, to November 19, 2000
Miles Traveled:469.3Engine Hours: 87Sailing Hours: 2 hr Expenses:Dinners/Entertainment: $102.00Docking Fees/Mooring: $150.00 Diesel/Water/Oil: $42.00 Groceries: $327.00 Wine/ beer/liquor: $40.00 Laundry: $6.00 Misc: Boat US: $21.00 West Marine: $83.00 Other: $100.00 |
THE DISMAL SWAMP CANAL
On October 30th we motored from ICW Mile “0” to the Dismal Swamp Canal, which has two locks operating on four daily openings. We took this route, as we were more interested in enjoying the serene countryside than in making a fast passage. We were not disappointed. This historic canal, built largely by slaves, can be dangerous, as the trees, which line it and give it its charm, often lose branches, and may partly block the canal. The stated 6-foot depth is not always maintained and even with our 5 foot 3 inch draft we bumped on several occasions and were forced to negotiate our way past numerous deadheads. There is a Visitor Center at the North Carolina border between the two locks. We were able to tie up at no charge, although this involved rafting to other boats. We arrived at the Visitor Center at 2:30 p.m. It is a quiet and beautiful place to stay for a few days. It was a very cold night; a 5 layers, mitts and scarves temperature for Diane who determines the temperature by the clothes she wears. 5 layers = 45 degrees F. low and 60 high. Apparently this cold weather is coming from Canada. Down here, they blame all their bad weather on Canada!After leaving the Visitor Center and going through the South Mills Lock at about 11 a.m., we traveled 2 more hours and anchored in 6-7 feet of water behind Goat Island, instead of going straight to Elizabeth City. We had heard that the Elizabeth City docks were over-crowded because of high winds on the Albemarle Sound, which forced many boats to wait for a break in the weather.
When we arrived in Elizabeth City the next day there were several FREE docks available. The city has a reputation for treating visiting boaters royally and they did not let us down. Almost as soon as we had completed our tie-up, an elderly gentleman named Fred arrived in a golf cart and gave us lots of information as well as inviting us to a wine and cheese party held in a covered patio near the docks. During the party we met other “Rose buddies “ as they termed themselves. Ladies were presented with a rose and a cotton ball still on the plant. Fred is pictured on their pamphlets and is the original Rose buddy. We dined in a local restaurant with two other sailing couples. Jeffrey finally found some-one else who appreciates the taste of Guinness.
The next day we headed across the Albemarle Sound to anchor in the Alligator River, and from there we motored to Campbell Creek, an isolated inlet where we experienced the most fantastic sunset in our memories. We took some photos but I doubt that they can do it justice.
ORIENTAL
After Campbell Creek we motored to Oriental, a small, quite famous sailing town with a fleet of fishing vessels and a very small and overcrowded anchorage. There we met two friends, Gareth and Carol, whom we had met previously in Cape May, on their vessel “Concert”. Unfortunately they were stuck in Oriental waiting for the installation of a new engine. Their Yanmar had developed a serious oil leak due to a cracked block. We managed to persuade a local motel/marina to allow us to use their shower facilities, but it took all of Diane’s charm to do it. Perce Neige was designated as the Happy Hour boat for that evening. We invited Carol and Gareth as well as Andre a French Canadian single hander, whose boat was anchored in front of us.BEAUFORT N.C.
For 5 days now, we have tried to make 40 to 50 miles per day, as we are looking for the warm weather. On November 05, we arrived in Beaufort N.C., accompanied dolphins swimming alongside our boat. In the anchorage we joined Rolger II, Lady Simcoe and Sea Turtle V; all good friends from our adventures in the Erie Canal. Only 10 minutes after we had dropped the anchor, they all arrived just in time for lunch. Diane had made quiches during the morning trip and we all appreciated them.We wandered around the largely closed stores of Beaufort (it was Sunday) and finally made our way to the Maritime Museum. It was well worth the price of admission (actually it was FREE). There were interesting exhibits showing the natural and maritime history of the region. They included exhibits of the various boats of the region, which were developed largely because of the shallow waters and includes everything from dugout canoes to various flat-bottomed wooden sailing boats and historic outboard motors.
There is an exhibit showing models and artifacts from the pirate Blackbeard’s vessel, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, which had been discovered in only 20 feet of water nearby. This included descriptions and sketches of how the pirates lived (and in Blackbeard’s case died).
After Beaufort, our route followed a succession of dredged channels through small sounds and salt marshes, all connected by land cuts. We were never far from the Atlantic Ocean and there was a definite seashore feel and look to the scenery. Here and there small fishing villages blended with resorts, vacation homes and retirement communities along the way. This section of the ICW also has its fair share of bridges some of which open only on the hour, causing some frustration at times.
WRIGHTSVILLE BEACH (WILMINGTON)
We stayed at Wrightsville Beach for two days. The weather had become warmer; we could walk to the ocean and we needed to enjoy that (as well as do our laundry). Our friends on Rolger II and Lady Simcoe departed ahead of us but we knew that we would see them further along the route when they decide to pause for a day or two.CAROLINA BEACH
We never did get to see the actual beach, however we did get to feel it under our keel. While we were anchored in nine feet of water we suddenly discovered that we were also aground! This was somewhat embarrassing. The bow was in nine feet according to the depth sounder but the rudder would not turn. We could not get the boat off the sand using the engine and even with a friend from Lady Simcoe who took out our trusty 45lb. Bruce anchor we were unable to kedge ourselves off. However we did not worry. The tide was turning and we calculated that Perce Neige would be refloated in two or three hours. Diane decided to go for a dinghy ride. We lowered the dinghy from the stern davits, dropped in the outboard and Diane got in and took off. After a few minutes I realized the boat had a different feel to it. I started the motor and with encouragement from the other boats in the anchorage I cranked at the anchor winch. Suddenly it all came free and I was running around like a madman, slowing the forward motion of the boat and trying to haul out the hundred or so feet of one inch anchor line before it fouled the propeller.CALABASH S.C.
We anchored at Calabash, a small inlet that quickly became very crowded. We were lucky to have arrived in first and to have chosen a place that was safe and difficult to encroach upon. This did not stop everyone. One sailboat anchored upwind of us and backed down on his anchor line until there was only ten feet between us. He then turned around and found me standing at the bow looking at him. He smiled awkwardly and said , “A little close?” I smiled back and he went forward to retrieve his anchor and then proceeded to drop it in the middle of the channel, which is used. at all hours, by local commercial fishing boats. I saw some of them passing his boat within a few feet but this time he stayed.BAREFOOT LANDING
There is 500 feet of FREE docking in this place. It is so popular that we had to raft onto Rolger II and were in turn rafted to by another visiting boat. Lady Simcoe followed us in. Barefoot Landing is a shopping village, incorporating a number of stores and restaurants, generally overpriced and geared to the tourists at nearby Myrtle Beach. There is: an imitation Olde Fashioned Store, lots of clothing and tee shirts for sale, a show featuring tigers and alligators, several restaurants and a tourist information center which knew nothing except the location of each store in the complex.The bus trip was a hoot; it had been a long time since we had traveled at a speed over 6 miles per hour! Scary! All six of us were like kids making our way to the Super Wal-Mart. What a place! Tons of good groceries at reasonable prices, an impressive hardware section at which Jeffrey spent lots of money and several mini franchises including a place to mail/courier packages, a one-hour photo store and a manicurist. After our triumphant return we compared our shopping and Diane showed off her new French manicure and pedicure. We also managed to find a restaurant/bar, which brewed its own very good beer and provided a half price snacks to go with it.
THOROUGHFARE CREEK
Thoroughfare Creek is a mile or two off the ICW, but well worth the scenic ride. There is a steep sand dune beside the anchorage on aptly named Sandy Island. When we climbed the dune we discovered a spectacular view of the inlet on the other side. Diane was barefoot and did not want to walk far as she had seen strange marks in the sand. However we concluded that the alligators and the snakes would run away if they saw Diane’s flaming red toes from the earlier pedicure. Peter and Jessie (Rolger II) did a tour in their dinghy and came back to invite not only the other three boats in our entourage, but also a local couple who regaled us with amusing stories, general historical and geographical information. Sandy Island, they stated, was part of Mount Rena, the highest point in South Carolina. Since we had climbed the dune in only a minute or two we realized the why South Carolinians use the term “Low Country” so often.AWENDON CREEK
Good anchorage where we spent some time with” Mr. Charles” and Joyce from Sea Turtle V. The people in South Carolina are very formal and polite; anybody over the age of 30 has a little. Mr. Mam, Miss, Captain,..CHARLESTON S.C.
We arrived at Charleston at 2 p.m. after fighting our way through 20 knots winds. To make docking easier, we waited for the tide to turn before we went into a dock at the friendly Ashley Marina around 4 p.m. Sea Turtle V was already there to welcome us. Rolger II and Lady Simcoe chose to stay in the anchorage. The marina is very accommodating; the attendants chauffeured us to and from the library, shopping, restaurants, West Marine, etc.Charleston is a beautiful historical town . We enjoyed it so much that we stayed for three days
The city was founded in 1670. Much of it’s beauty and variety stems from hard times; civil war, fire, earthquake, and hurricanes. The streets are full of kids from the local college and the military college Beautiful homes, churches and public buildings incorporating colonial, antebellum and Victorian architectures line the city’s streets. We took a bus tour, which incorporated images of the inside of many of the buildings, shown on a screen in the bus and narrated by a very knowledgeable guide. Many of the houses are sideways (one room wide by two or three long) to the road and sometimes incorporate large “fish ponds” (swimming pools are not allowed under local ordinances)
After a day doing our chores, and visiting the city, we along with 8 others sailors, had a great dinner at the Blossom Café a restaurant with an Italian influence. We spent the next day grocery shopping, as well as visiting both West Marine and Boat US stores to assist in maintenance work. Sea Turtle 5 remained behind to complete installing a new inverter/charger.
Y’all come on back real soon, y’ hear!
top
